1. Vocabulary
The words used on board, to understand (and be understood) from your very first outing.
The sailing boat
- Helm – a wheel (like a steering wheel) or a tiller (a bar you push or pull). Some boats have two wheels, one on each side, so you can choose the most comfortable position and the best view.
- Cockpit – the outside area at the back of the boat.
- Companionway – the steps leading inside.
- Stern pulpit – the rail at the back. The back of the boat is called the stern.
- Bow pulpit – the front of the boat is called the bow; the very front edge of the hull, the stem.
- Mast
- Boom – it holds and positions the foot of the mainsail.
- Gooseneck – the joint between the mast and the boom.
- Mast step
- Coachroof – the raised part around the companionway.
- Stanchion – the small posts along the sides of the boat.
- Guardrail – the wire running around the boat to stop you falling overboard, held by the stanchions.
- Bow roller – the roller at the front where the anchor chain runs.
- Side deck – the side passage to go forward. The widest point of the boat is called the beam.
- Foredeck – not just for sunbathing: this is where you stand to hoist or drop the sails.
- Cleat – to moor the boat. The U-shaped fairleads guide the lines so they don’t rub against the hull.
The rigging
The rigging is everything that allows the boat to move under sail:
- Running rigging : the moving parts you use for trimming (sails, lines…).
- Standing rigging : the fixed parts, i.e. the mast, the boom and the wires that hold the mast up:
- Cap shroud : holds the mast sideways. The spreaders push it outwards to make it more effective.
- Forestay : holds the mast forward.
- Backstay : holds the mast aft.
- Intermediate : stiffens the mast, bearing on the spreader.
- Lower shroud : stiffens the lower mast, bearing on the deck.
The hull
- Rudder – the “steering blade” under the water, which turns to go to starboard or port. The helm and the rudder together form the steering.
- Underwater hull – the submerged part of the hull, the part that keeps you afloat.
- Ballast (or bulb) – the counterweight that stops the boat from heeling too much.
- Keel – it carries the ballast and balances the boat. A boat with a keel is a keelboat.
The interior
- Companionway : the steps leading inside (and, a little secret, the engine is hidden just underneath).
- Saloon : the living area for meals. The benches turn into berths; you store things in small cupboards and in the lockers under the benches.
- Chart table : the navigator’s station, with the electronics (GPS, radar, electrical panel…).
- Cabins : small! Bring a soft bag rather than a suitcase, and close the portholes when sailing.
- Galley : cooker with oven, fridge, sink with pressurised water. Fresh water is stored in tanks.
- Heads : the manual pump has two positions (flush with seawater / empty). Pump at least fifteen times or so.
- Sail locker : to store the sails and navigation gear.
Types of sailing boat
Depending on the number and size of the masts, sailing boats have different names:
One mast. The most common type, and the one we use for our lessons.
Two masts. The aft mast (mizzen) is smaller and stepped forward of the rudder.
Two masts. The mizzen is smaller and stepped aft of the rudder.
Two or more masts of the same size, or with a smaller foremast.
2. Points of sail
The point of sail is the boat’s direction relative to the wind. The angle between the wind and the sail is called the angle of attack.
- Head to wind – you can’t move forward: the sails flap (like a flag). It is the ideal position to hoist or drop the mainsail.
- Close-hauled – to sail upwind; the sail is almost in line with the boat.
- Close reach – about 60° off the wind.
- Fine reach
- Beam reach – about 90° off the wind.
- Broad reach – the waves push the boat: hold your course firmly.
- Very broad reach
- Running – the mainsail is fully eased. Careful: if you bear away further, the sails switch sides (gybe).
Luffing up and bearing away
- Luff up (1) : turn towards the wind.
- Bear away (2) : turn away from the wind.
- If the boat luffs up on its own when you let go of the helm, it has weather helm.
- If it bears away on its own, it has lee helm.
Tacking and gybing
- You can’t sail straight into the wind: to reach a target upwind, you beat by tacking repeatedly.
- (1) Straight ahead: impossible.
- (2) Lots of tacks.
- (3) A single tack: the distance sailed is the same.
- Gybing follows the same principle, but downwind: the wind passes from one side to the other across the stern.
- When tacking, the boat spends a few seconds head to wind, which slows it down safely. Downwind there is no such brake: if you bear away too far, the sails swing across in one go. Hence a controlled manoeuvre.
3. The wind
The wind you feel on a sailing boat isn’t just the forecast wind: there are three to tell apart.
- True wind : the forecast wind. To spot it, look at the coast (smoke, flags, wind turbines) or at the ripples on the water.
- Boat-speed wind : the wind created by the boat moving forward, along the boat’s axis and opposite to its course.
- Apparent wind : the sum of the two. It is the wind you feel on board, and the one shown by the masthead wind indicator and the telltales.
- (1) Close-hauled, the wind comes from ahead: the boat-speed wind adds to the true wind, the apparent wind is stronger.
- (2) On a very broad reach, the wind comes from behind: the boat-speed wind works against the true wind, the apparent wind is weaker.
4. How a sailing boat works
For the boat to hold its course and speed, without sinking or capsizing, the forces acting on it must balance out.
Depending on how weight is distributed on board, it acts at the centre of gravity. Vertical force, downwards: it pushes the boat into the water.
The water pressure on the hull acts at the centre of buoyancy, at the centre of the submerged part. It moves with heel and waves. Vertical force, upwards: it stops the boat from sinking.
It comes from higher pressure on one side of the sail (windward side) and lower pressure on the other (leeward side). It breaks down into:
- driving force, parallel to the course: it moves the boat forward;
- heeling (side) force, perpendicular to the axis: it pushes the boat sideways.
It comes from the friction of the water on the hull and keel, and slows the boat down. It breaks down into:
- lateral resistance : the keel and hull stop the boat from sliding sideways;
- drag : the more streamlined (and clean!) the hull, the lower it is.
The moments
It makes the boat heel. It combines the sail force (wind) and the lateral resistance (water). The more wind, the more the boat heels.
It counters the heel. It combines the weight (centre of gravity) and buoyancy (centre of buoyancy). The more weight on the windward side, the more the boat comes upright.
5. Buoyage and right of way
Buoys and beacons are the road signs of the sea. What follows applies to region A (Europe, Africa, Australia…).
Lateral marks
Green, with a cone top mark. When entering harbour, keep it on your right (pass to its left).
Red, with a cylindrical top mark. When entering harbour, keep it on your left (pass to its right).
Preferred channel
When several channels lead to the harbour, look at the dominant colour and apply the lateral marks rule.
Mainly red: treat it as a port mark. Keep it on your left, pass to its right (when entering).
Mainly green: treat it as a starboard mark. Keep it on your right, pass to its left (when entering).
Cardinal marks
They show which side to pass to avoid a danger. Tip: the cone points show where the black is on the buoy.
Two cones pointing up. Black on top, yellow below. Pass to the north : the danger is to the south.
Two cones pointing down. Yellow on top, black below. Pass to the south : the danger is to the north.
Cones base to base. Black, yellow, black. Pass to theeast : the danger is to the west.
Cones point to point (a “W” for West). Yellow, black, yellow. Pass to thewest : the danger is to the east.
Other marks
Black with a red band, two black spheres. Marks a single danger: wreck, rock…
Yellow, cross top mark. Marks a special area (cables, military exercise…): check the chart.
Red and white vertical stripes, red sphere. No danger: you can pass on either side.
Round yellow buoy: bathing area up to 300 m from the shore, speed limited to 5 knots.
6. Knots
Five knots cover most situations on board. Practise on land, with your eyes closed!
To attach a line to a sail (halyard or sheet) or to moor the boat. It is strong and easy to undo by lifting the loop that locks the strand.
- Make a small loop, with the working end (the free end) passing over the standing part.
- Pass the working end up through the loop from underneath.
- Go around the standing part, then back down through the loop. Pull tight: done.
The stopper knot: it stops a line from running out, for example out of a clutch or a block.
- Make a loop.
- Pass the end back through the loop, drawing an 8.
- Pull tight: done.
To make fast on a cleat, on the pontoon or on board. It holds well and comes undone quickly.
- Take a full turn around the cleat: this is what holds the boat.
- Make a figure of eight around the horns of the cleat.
- Finish with a locking hitch, parallel to the previous one. Pull tight.
To tie the fenders onto the guardrail. You can tie it with one hand while the other holds the fender, but it can slip if it isn’t under tension.
- Take a round turn, forming a loop.
- Take a second turn, passing through the previous loop.
- Pull tight. Add a half hitch for extra safety.
To moor the boat to a ring, a bollard or a cleat. Simple to learn, easy to undo.
- Take a full turn around the mooring point (the round turn): it already holds the boat.
- Make a half hitch (a simple knot around the standing part) and pull tight.
- Make a second half hitch and pull tight: the knot holds.
7. Preparing my outing
A handy summary of what not to forget before leaving: your luggage, the state of the boat and the basic knowledge. These documents are made available to help you ❤️: feel free to share the page with your friends!